Here is an image of my buddy Matt Belus going for it big time in Moab, Utah. This particular route was a 5.9 slab. A lot of the routes on this cliff were rated “R” or “X” meaning a fall could result in injury or death, this obviously made the consequence and depravity of each number grade go up drastically. It was worth it though, as the next route we got on was a 5.10c and both of us considered it our new favorite route we had ever done. Good stuff in Utah!
Thank you very much for reading.
Today my friend and I climbed Streaker Spire (5.7-8) in Sedona, Arizona. It was a three pitch desert tower on some of the worst and best sandstone ever. Sedona is just like that, one second you are on the coolest rock you have ever touched and the next second you are trying not to knock choss onto your belayers head. Streaker Spire provided some of the most awkward off-width climbing I have ever done and definitely had it’s trying moments. But as the local guide book says, “Recommended Climbs: None, Never trust holds, never trust bolts or pitons, never trust cam placements, and just don’t fall period.”
Every trip to Sedona proves to be an epic in its own respect. This time it was the hike back to the car that took an interesting turn. In attempting to navigate the red slabs littered with cactus, thorns, spiders, and loose rock we ended up in some sort of a slot canyon. Fortunately it only took a couple ten-or-so-feet chimney moves to get out and we were back on the trail in no time. All in all today was a great success and I am happy to claim it as my second trad lead!
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This weekend I get to hop on my second trad lead. The climb is called Streaker Spire and it is rated 5.7+. I have heard a lot of things about it from the local climbers who have tried it. People say it is awkward climbing, but a great summit and maybe the best introduction to Sedona climbing. It is a desert spire, so it will be weird and it also has a traverse which I heard can be tricky. All in all I am very excited, and if all goes well you will be seeing pictures soon!
Here is an image from Moab that I was quite proud of. I had exactly ten seconds to make it from my camera all the way over to the arch…it took three times! But in the end it was all worth it in my opinion. I hope you like it.
I could not decide this week which of two images to make my photo of the week. Last weekend in Moab I took A LOT of pictures…picking through them was no simple task. But this week I chose two night shots. Each taken on right after the other at out makeshift campsite 20 minutes south of Moab out on some dirt road.
Here is a video I put together of this last weekends climbing trip to Moab, Utah.
Hope you enjoy!
This last weekend was a trip of a lifetime. My friends and I spent the weekend in beautiful Moab, Utah. Moab is a place of much wonder and mystery. Scattered deserts with jutting bluffs and stark sandstone cliffs shooting out from the red earth provide a landscape that steals the breath and cultivates the imagination. It is places like this that make you reevaluate your place and purpose on this planet.
Reevaluation and accumulation of new thoughts, values and memories coupled with challenging rock climbs and time spent sleeping on the cryptobiotic soil underneath the vastly lit night sky. This is what Utah was all about for our small misfit group of dirtbag climbers. After all, isn’t dirtbagging what climbing is all about. Sharing jars of peanut butter for breakfast, boiling water over the open flame and scrounging for wood in the middle of the night gives you a connection to the places you stay. That is why we do it, that is why we rock climb. Not simply because of the stark challenge of the rock itself, but also for the experience as a whole. The knowledge that the outdoors can impart on you is indispensable.
I hope you get the chance to venture outside soon!